April 2002

Today is Nyepi Day in Bali. Last night was our New Year's Eve meets Madi Gras meets Halloween meets 4th of July meets Chinese New Year. Quite a spectacle. It has been building for about 3 weeks. This last week or so, as I drive to and from work, I've noticed these 'paper mache' constructions being built in each village and town. Bamboo structures, covered with palm strips, then covered with (I think) paper mache; then painted. I've attached a picture of one so you get an idea of what they look like. Many different 'beings', from devils to gods to heroes to tele-tubbies (even). Many are fierce looking, many are just plain funny looking - as in laugh out loud. I've started on a web site for my Bali adventures - it'll contain summaries by month, with the details if one is so inclined, but the big advantage will be the addition of so many of my photographs (even some short films). Photos of friends that have visited; palaces I've seen; hotels I've stayed at; people and friends I've met; ceremonies I've seen; to other spectacles I've witnessed. I'll send out an announcement when it's all done.

But back to Nyepi - it all came to a head on Nyepi eve (last night). About 5 PM all the oogah-oogahs (the hand built figures) are paraded around the villages for all to see and admire - Ubud had many dozen, mostly large, but some very cure small ones as well. Then they are taken to a large open area (in Ubud it's the soccer field) where they are blessed and ritualistically burned - some ARE burned, some (the best ones) are purchased by hotels for display. Also about this time - the entire island is filled with noise. Drums banging; firecrackers going off; little bombs (bamboo pipes filled with something that makes a huge bang); and other noises. The idea is that between the scary figures and all the noise the evil spirits will decide to depart. At first I thought this was kinda symbolic, but I even saw a neighbor woman march around her little house banging on a pot! This continued until after mid-night. Today ALL is quiet. The streets are EMPTY. Even the airport is closed. The streets are patrolled by local (village) security who will make you turn around and go back if they see you either driving or walking or even crossing the roads. The idea is that all those evil spirits that were chased away yesterday and last night, will come back today - fly over Bali and go "oh shit, no ones here anymore, oh well, let's go on to some place else". I love a culture/religion that believes that evil is sorta stupid and easily fooled, don't you? So anyway, today is the 'Day of Silence'. Balinese (this is actually a Balinese tradition) stay home, no lights, no TV, no cooking, no anything. Just stay in bed all day and think about the new year and be grateful for all that has happened last year. Pretty neat. This evening, I keep quiet (I'll cook though - my housekeeper made me food to reheat, since no cafes are open) and keep my drapes closed to keep the light in. If the local security were to see a Balinese with there lights on or TV on, they'd come over and tell them to turn them off. These folks are serious.

Some other news. I'm trying to start the plan for my 2-3 week visit to SF. I'm thinking around July 31st thru Aug. 12th. That'd give me about 1 1/2 weeks (which is about all I can afford) and 3 week-ends. How does this sound for my family and SF friends? I'm certainly flexible, so if someone is planning to be gone at that time so I couldn't see them, let me know and I'd adjust the schedule. TO my family, I'd hope you'd all want to have a SF Briscoe Family Reunion. I could see about renting a big house if we could nail down the date - maybe big enough to hold us all; maybe in a beautiful SF mansion or a beach house in Stinson or ? So let me know what you all think!

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